Car Shopper's Toolkit
Don't walk into the dealership empty-handed. These free calculators help you understand things like "out-the-door price" (the REAL total you'll pay), loan costs, trade-in value, and more—so you can verify what they're telling you.
The manufacturer's base price (NOT the dealer's asking price).
The price of the car BEFORE taxes/fees.
Enter the numbers to see your grade.
The "Truth Serum" for Used Cars
VinSmart is an NMVTIS-approved provider, which means it can pull title/brand data reported to the federal NMVTIS system. It's a strong first step to spot red flags before you spend time negotiating. Note: NMVTIS data generally does not include accident or repair history—pair it with an inspection.
- NMVTIS-based title/brand history (salvage/total loss, flood, etc.)
- May include lien/lease and recall info (availability varies)
- One-time report (no subscription)
Sample report preview
Sources
- NMVTIS consumer site (U.S. Department of Justice)
- NMVTIS approved data providers list
- What NMVTIS includes (and excludes) — VinSmart
Note: Coverage varies by provider and vehicle. Always combine a history check with an inspection.
Financial Reality Check
Dealers rely on you not doing the math. Use these calculators to verify their numbers.
Call your lender for the exact payoff amount
Get quotes from CarMax/Carvana for comparison
Net Equity Position
DANGER ZONE
You owe more than the car is worth. If you trade this in, the dealer will add this $3,000 to your NEW loan. You will be paying interest on a car you don't even own anymore.
What is GAP Insurance?
GAP (Guaranteed Asset Protection) insurance covers the difference between what your insurance pays and what you owe if your car is totaled or stolen.
• Dealer option: can be expensive and may be rolled into the loan (increasing total cost)
• Your insurance company: sometimes available as an add-on
• Credit union/bank: sometimes offers GAP (or similar) — ask before you sign
Tip: Compare GAP options before buying. Start with your insurer or credit union.
Don't Make It Worse
When you're underwater, it’s easier to get pressured into a bad deal. Before you buy, run the VIN to check for title brands/total-loss history, theft flags, and odometer issues (coverage varies by provider).
Check Vehicle HistoryTip: Verify your payoff amount by calling your lender directly. Dealer estimates can be wrong or outdated.
Note: This assumes your state offers a sales tax credit on trade-ins. Some states (like CA, HI) don't. Check your local DMV or tax office.
$30,000
7.00% APR
Planning Tools
Know the final number before you sign.
The Vehicle
The negotiated price before taxes/fees
Factory rebates, cash back, loyalty bonuses
Add-ons & Fees
Warranties, nitrogen, etching, etc.
Trade-In (Your Current Car—Optional)
What the dealer is offering for your current car
What you still owe on your current car (if anything)
Taxes & Gov Fees
Finance (Buy) Options
Lease Options
Tip: Money Factor × 2400 ≈ APR%. Example: 0.0025 × 2400 ≈ 6% APR
Research Links
Free resources to arm yourself with data before you negotiate.
Compare prices across multiple sources to find the true market value.
Check for open recalls on any VIN. Recalls are fixed for free.
Get written offers to use as leverage when negotiating your trade-in.
Always get pre-approved before visiting a dealership.
Research dealer reputation before visiting. Report bad experiences.
The sticker price is just the beginning. Factor in insurance, fuel, and maintenance.
Ready to Negotiate?
You've done the math. Now put it into action.